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Re: Algae Challange
You seem to be looking for one single clear answer or solution, and there
isnt one! The Sears and Conlin paper came from people of this list, from a
controlled set of experiments using a combination of various nutrients in
dosages that would allow plants to respond without leaving excess nutrients
for algae growth. More recent discussions around Tom Barrs experience has
shown favorable results from a different angle. I am sure he can explain it.
But the fact is algae is always present in your water and if you are
inclined to fight the fight, you have to do a lot of tinkering.
"My broader issue, however, is: if one doesn't win the algae fight, one
will not likely continue in the hobby" If you want absolute algae free
water, then you wont enjoy this hobby much!
>>Florida Driftwood sells a clay ball substrate injection tool to do this:
Substrate Nutrient Injector
<http://floridadriftwood.com/substratefertilizernutrients.html> . Is that
what it takes?<<
This is one alternative. Of many. There are many substrate alternatives and
additives. I use a clay gravel, either Profile or Seachems Flourite. To this
I add Jobes NPK fertilizer sticks, (for ferns for the lower phosphate
level), and Bioplast mineral balls. Some people use laterite, and make their
own clay balls rolled in trace mineral mix. Some people use soils, peat, and
"If a tank needs to be kicked into high gear, to enable plants to
out-compete algae, what fast growing plants do you recommend? Does the
concept of adding fast-growing plants in reasonable quantity make sense for
newer tanks, and for most other tanks that are experiencing significant
algae (assuming nutrients, light, filtration etc are reasonably correct)?"<<
In my opinion, yes. If you have sufficient light to encourage quick plant
growth, and CO2 to balance the demand for energy. There are many fast
growing plants, hygrophila, myriophyllum species, Bacopa monnieri,
Ludwigia, Creeping charlie, Hydrocotle, Ambulia, Alternanthera reineckii,
>>When employing all of the above measures, generally how long should one
pause to see if the desired effect is coming, e.g. how long would it take to
know if PMDD is working, if adding plants is working, etc. This is
important, because newer hobbyists may tend to act, or react, to soon.<<
A tanks ecco system is very unstable during its first 90 days, and after a
year begins to settle. After 2 or 3 years your tank should be "mature"
Robert Paul H
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