[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Re: regulator-to-needle-valve question

> Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 20:40:34 -0800 (PST)
> From: Lazarus Miskowski <lazmiskowski at yahoo_com>
> Subject: regulator-to-needle-valve question
> 
> People on this list have talked about screwing in
> their needle valves directly into their regulators.
> 
> The regulators I am looking at in the www.4rapid1.com
> catalog have hose barbs on the output.  My question
> is, does this somehow come off, so that the needle
> valve can be screwed in?  Or would I need to use an
> in-line needle valve?  I am thinking of using the M3
> valve.
> 
> The regulators are Cornelius, Norgren, Tap-rite, and
> NADS.
> 
> Also, do people have opinions on what regulators to
> get among those?  Both the Tap-rite and the NADS
> regulators are cheaper than the other two brands.
> 

No matter what brand of regulator you have, there is a tiny chance that it
will eventually fail and try to allow full tank pressure to appear on the
outlet side. Most beer regulators have to have, by law, a safety release
that pops off at about 80-100 psi, should the regulator develop such a leak.
The tank dumps its contents to the room, which usually is no problem if well
vented.

If the regulator you use has such a safety release, then you probably can
unscrew the bayonet fitting and directly (or via adapter fittings) attach
the needle valve to the body of the regulator with appropriate thread
sealant. The needle valve doesn't need to be rated for 1000 psi, in that
situation.

Never use teflon tape ahead of a needle valve unless you are unusually
expert at it. Thread compound (in a tube) is much less likely to shred and
clog your needle valve permanently.

There is a small chance the needle valve (if rated only for lower pressure)
could explode, if full 900 psi of tank pressure is applied to it without the
safety release. Lacking the safety pop-off, a stretch of hose can serve as a
"fuse" to blow up before the valve does. In that case, use the bayonet and
put the valve in line.

Wright

PS. As a plumber, I'm a pretty good electrical engineer. This free advice
comes without warranty, and is worth every penny. ;-)
-- 
Wright Huntley, Fremont CA, USA, 510 494-8679  huntleyone at home dot com

              Politicians and diapers have one thing in common. 
                 They should both be changed regularly 
                       and for the same reason.

                     http://free-market.net/news/