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RE: Newbie with Q's?
This regulator should work nicely. You may have to replace the 3/16" ribbed
adapter to accommodate the tubing you are using.
If I were setting up this system, I would also add a needle (or metering)
valve. The easiest way to accomplish this is to take the regulator to the
hardware or plumbing ,store along with the tubing you plant to use, and
tell the clerk:
"I want to go from this regulator, to a needle valve, to this tubing."
They should be able to find the parts you need. I would try to find a
needle valve you can screw directly into the regulator, and a tubing
connector (like the ribbed connection) that will screw directly into the
needle valve. The reason for this is, usually a screwed connection is less
prone to leak if done correctly that a clamped connection.
If they are really customer oriented, they will offer put it all together
for you in the store. If not, ask. All they can do is tell you no.
You might also ask if they have a lower range gauge for the low pressure
side. I would look for something in the 0 to 30 psig range. Since I don't
have a really good needle valve (I use a plastic airline tubing valve), I
find it is usually easier for me to adjust the pressure output of the
regulator, than to adjust the needle valve for flow regulation. (If the
orifice size (valve opening) remains constant, flow through the valve is
proportional, for these purposes, to the differential pressure across the
The preceding is my never to be humble opinion. If you don't agree, you
should change your mind (just kidding).
Democrat: Give us your money. We'll solve your problems.
Republican: Give us your money. We'll ignore your problems.
Libertarian: Keep your money. Solve your own problems.
I plan on DIY'ing a CO2 system. This is the area where I could use the
advice. I plan on using a Harbor Freight regulator on a welding CO2 tank.
As of this writing, their page is down, but the link I have for the
Is this regulator appropriate for the situation? Would I need any