[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
Re: internode length
- To: <Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com>
- Subject: Re: internode length
- From: Thomas Barr <tcbiii at earthlink_net>
- Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 15:52:39 -0800
- In-Reply-To: <200101072048.PAA01389 at actwin_com>
- User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
> I'd like to discuss some factors that will make
> Myriophylum, Limnophila, and Cabomba grow really leggy
> with long internodes.
> I'm thinking that really strong light is the most
> important factor. I will be getting PCFs tomorrow.
> In the past, I haven't been able to grow these plants
> the way I want them to grow under regular flourescent
> lights. Just not strong enough? I'll bet only PCFs
> and metal halides can grow these plants compact.
Try lowering your NO3's and upping your P. I can get the same leggy growth
with MH and PC's.
Strong light will help some, but it won't cure it. Many plants will stretch
for the light. Keep things pruned well and allow good access to the light
combined with lower NO3 will help.
FWIW, I have red Cabomba growing just fine in my 1.6 watt a gallon tank at
20 inch depth tank. It is just fine. I have had this same plant right under
a MH at 18 inch depth and at at 20 inches as well and got leggy growth. My
NO3 were higher in the MH tank. Prunings with lower NO3 will help you the
Keeping the NO3 low *but not absent* will help most folks generally. I say
the same about the P. K you can add a lot(20-30ppm). NO3 (1-5 or so ppm).
Not quite sure how much or far the P can be taken yet. Over 1.2 ppm
certainly though if the others are in balance. Pulsing works fine too for
the more conservative folks. As always, check your CO2 first to make sure
that is not your problem. I'm still fooling with P(haven't gone beyond the
1.2 ppm range yet), with high CO2,low NO3, high K+ and lots of trace
elements(Fe at 1ppm-2ppm). I doubt it plays much role in your internode
distances but could to some degree if it's cronically absent.
> Species. From what I looked up, only a few
> Myriophylum species sold are even suitable for warmer
> tanks. turburculatum, mattogronse (sp?), and
> aquaticum are supposed to be all right. Are many of
> the plants sold in stores the cooler water species?
> It's so hard to tell which is which.
Unless your above 84F or so most will be fine. There's a few, not many, that
can't handle warmer waters.
> Temperature. I understand that this makes a
> difference too. Does keeping the water a little
> cooler help?
Slows down the metabolism in some plants. I haven't used a heater for...
well I can't say even:)
Maybe 4 years or so? I have thermometers to keep an eye on things but the
changes don't seem to cause this morphology IMO without the needed nutrients
It would be hard to say it causes this in our situation.