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Re: Internode Length on Feathery Plants



Sounds very familiar :-) I've had cabomba for a long time now, and when I 
used to use regular flourescents -- and not many of them either -- I would 
get *very* leggy growth. After switching to 55w PCFs on the 20g tanks I 
have the cabomba in I see about a 70-80% reduction in distance between 
nodes. Probably about 1/4" to 1/2" distance between nodes now, depending on 
the plant and postion (they tend to be denser near the surface). Water 
chemistry does make a difference too, and I find that when I'm not 
fertilizing enough I get leggier plant growth. No CO2 in the cabomba tanks 
either so that I can get the fish to fit ;-)

I keep the water about 78 F with *very* little water movement. The bed is 
regular gravel dosed with Seachem's flourish tabs.

I will be setting up a new 125g soon with MH lighting and an all-flourite 
gravel bed and plan to try some cabomba in it. It will be one of the 
"starter" plants.

         -Bill

>I'd like to discuss some factors that will make
>Myriophylum, Limnophila, and Cabomba grow really leggy
>with long internodes.
>
>I'm thinking that really strong light is the most
>important factor.  I will be getting PCFs tomorrow.
>In the past, I haven't been able to grow these plants
>the way I want them to grow under regular flourescent
>lights.  Just not strong enough?  I'll bet only PCFs
>and metal halides can grow these plants compact.