[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V4 #710
> A bunch of questions:
> Fe seems to be my limiting nutrient. I tested for chelated Fe
> morning, and the reading was 0. I added 10 ml (the tank is 55
> of Kent Marine Super Chelated Iron, and tested again a 1/2
> The reading was now .5 mg/l. This AM I test again, and I'm
back down to
> 0. Can I really be using Fe this fast?
Yes, I add a lot of trace elements to my tanks but they are
If yours is doing well you can add more trace elements. Try 5
mls daily and see what that builds to after a week. Or check
daily if you want. While it may seem low in the column you can
have a good source in the substrate as well. It may be another
element and not the iron causing the deficiency. You may be in
danger of running things too low. Some folks do not to add iron
often to slow things down. Plants are fine without it for up to
three weeks. Excess seems to lead to the thread algae but these
are not bad algae to deal with.
If your real hungry, and then you eat a banana you will not be
too full. But if you just ate a good meal you will be full. The
plants could be experiencing a similar effect here as well. Not
much or enough Fe then you add more and they finally get a good
meal. Keep testing and adding more.
Sometimes it is more than you might think. Sometimes you don't
need that much Fe as well(Fe in the gravel etc healthy plants
etc everybody is happy). Test for it as you do this to see what
your tank's appetite is.
And if so, can I keep adding
> either Kent Freshwater Plant Supplement or the Super Chelated
> without building up other undesired elements? The rate I would
> add to keep .5 mg/l or higher would far exceed the recommended
> And is it OK to use the Kent Marine Super Iron?
I'd use just the FW plant supp with a spike of a 1 ml or so on
top of the reading you'd get with the supp alone(if your target
is .5 mg/l use the FwPS for this range and then add another 1 ml
of the 100% iron to that). Steve Dixon had done this and I have
been doing it for some time with good results as well. My tanks
have been richer nutrient wise than his generally speaking. My
levels are in the 1-2ppm or mg/l range using TMG and SeaChem's
flourish iron. Prior I used only the TMG to get 1-2ppm. Mind
you, my tank is growing very fast and well. If you have so-so
growth you may want to work your way up slowly. Keep the CO2
high and test to see what is happening. That could be an issue
as well(the CO2). Then you can make a better judgement.
I was told so, but would
> like a confirmation on this. And is there any way to slow
> only into the column?
Put the iron in the grave(Flourite /iron balls and tabs etc,
laterite, iron filings). You can just add it to the water column
as well (or both methods) when you add your fish food in small
doses daily. If you forget or take off for a few days things
will be fine.
> I have been trying the propane regulator as a secondary
regulator on my
> Co2 system, and it prevents tank dumps on my Gromberg system.
> drawback is it won't open the nice metallic check valve I
have, or a
> cheaper one. Does anyone know of a source of easy opening
> rated for Co2? Or alternately, another second regulator choice
> allow a greater output pressure? Bearing in mind I would like
to be a
Your cheap? Get a needle valve. Lots more precise than what your
using. Keep your disc clean.
The other methods you will find cost more in the long run. A
second regulator will cost more than a decent needle valve. I
really don't see how one is going to be more precise than a
needle valve as well. 19$ ain't much for a needle valve that
works. Why make it hard on yourself? You want protection, how
much does that cost? What is that worth?
Good control of your CO2 is KEY!!!!!!! You can say it's this or
that nutrient- but if there's not enough CO2 well
then........your not going to have much luck.
You get that done right, then all that's left is nutrients. Make
sure that's taken care first, then fix the next problem.
> Most of my plants have been getting holes in them, but overall
> good. I have plenty of snails, but after watching them
> don't see them actually vandalizing my plants. Micro nutrient
Snails are not to blame, your nutrient balance is. A mobile
nutrient and would say likely a NO3 deficiency. Check it to find
out. A good NO3 kit and Fe kit will take care of most folks for
nutrients. After a few years you can just "look" and tell. If
that doesn't work I break out the kits. I keep up on the K+ and
add a bit of P since my tap doesn't have it down here like I did
before. You can see results form the P easily and this is kept
to a minimum but the K is fine in excess(20-30ppm) which can be
estimated by doing water changes and adding a known amount to a
known amount of make up water. It's not such a precise target
really. P is. NO3 can be. Fe not so much. Depends on how you run
your tank too. Some want to find their balance of things, some
want to try different methods to see which is the best, but
what's best for you is the big key I think.
If you have a 55 gallon tank a 1/4 teaspoon 2x a week of K2SO4
will do the trick in addition to the amount added by your Trace
element mix. I add more personally. If you need both K and NO3
then KNO3 will help you. Try to keep your NO3 in a tighter range
though. 10ppm or less. You'll need to test till you get a feel
for it. I don't test for K but just add excess amount till I'm
in a ballpark "range" (20-30ppm).
It is one of these two (K or NO3). Results may take a little
while but you should see improvements.
> And, small worms about a cm long have appeared in my tank.
They have an
> "inch worm" like way of moving, are pink and pointy on both
> ideas who this is, and if they constitute a problem or not?
No, not really. Fish will eat them typically. Flat worms and
most wormies are not an issue unless you just don't like the
look. They help somewhat I think. You can get rid of them using
med's if you wish. I leave em.
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products.