[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
Re: CO2 Regulators
Robert H. wrote:
"They are also usually low pressure. Companies that sell regulators for this
hobby that dont make their own usually get industrial high pressure. Not so
hot with a needle valve, but very reliable...just use good hose clamps."
Ahhh...... O.K....... this makes more sense (I think.....). Tell me if this
is correct (for this example, I'm referring to the BHS500, which is a dual
guage, Single-Stage Regulator made by BOC Gases and recommended by them for
use with CO2) [http://www.boc.com/]:
From the posted specs on this Regulator, it is available in a variety of
"outlet pressure ranges", as follows:
15 (2-15 psig)
40 (2-40 psig)
80 (4-80 psig)
125 (5-125 psig)
200 (10-200 psig)
300 (10-300 psig)
500 (20-500 psig)
The regulator can also be fitted with a variety of outlet gauges, to match
the output pressure range more closely.
For our uses, in an aquarium, would we be better off with either the "15" or
the "40" as opposed to the higher ratings for the maximum outlet pressure
delivered by the regulator? A sintered glass device is supposed to deliver
its best performance at around 20 psig, so I assume that if the regulator
was fitted with the "15" it could be used directly with a sintered glass
difuser (with no need of a needle valve - the regulator's own adjustment
would be sufficient to control the gas flow to the diffusor). If a person
wanted to use a "reactor" rather than a "diffuser", a needle valve on the
"15" would be able to throttle back the gas into the desired range for the
reactor???
Am I thinking correctly here?
James Purchase
Toronto