[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Re: RE: Gitte's Crypts

FocaIPoint at aol_com wrote;

> Wouldn't that be research done _after_ the fact? Had you done much
> _preliminary_ research, I doubt that Crypts would have been among your
> initial choices for a newly established tank.>>
> Interesting. You mean to say that I have finally done something right? <g> 
> I'm in the process of setting up a 120gallon FW heavily planted tank. I drive 
> to TFP for the 12 bags of Flourite, an Eheim 2228 and two 250watt heaters 
> tomorrow. I picked up three shop lights and six Chroma 50 tubes today. So 
> I'll be ready to go within the next few days.
> I intend to plant heavily right off the bat and would appreciate the input of 
> those more  experienced than I. Thus far I have decided on
> 30 - 50 Val's of various kinds. Jungle, Italian crystal
> 5   more or less bunches of Ceratopteris
> 5 Aponogeton rigidifolius or as many as I can find
> ditto with Aponogeton crispus
> 5 -  Swords (barthii, Marble Queen,Rubin, etc) ( but I concerned that I may 
> be jumping the gun here a bit)
> 5 - 10 Alternanthere reineckii * Roseafolia*

I would suggest to skip swords in the first phase. As well as any other plant
that has long-lived leaves. You can add then later after the tank went thru 
the usual algae cycles. Once a sword leaf gets colonized by certain types of 
thread algae it is lost forever. Prunning the aftected leaves will leave your 
swords looking bare, with all the smaller leaves in the bottom missing. The 
lush, full look is gone forever. Personally, I would start a new tank with 
just a lot of cheap, fast growing stem plants carpeting at least 1/3 of the 
surface. Clippings could quickly be used to cover the remaining surface. Then, 
when the tank begins to stabilize, I would slowly replace them with my 
target plants. I like hygro and rotala rotundifolia and floating amazon 
frogbit for this initial cleaning act. In my very limited experince, 
stablishing a successful planted aquarium asks above all for a lot of 

> And whatever else that might catch my eye that is relatively fast growing and 
> likes slightly soft and slightly less than neutral pH. I'm keeping away from 
> the Crypts and other delicate lower light plants until the aquarium has 
> stabilized, the plants growing well and established shaded areas where the 
> aforementioned crytps will go.
> Any and all suggestions, plant recommendations and or comments would be 
> appreciated. But more specifically:
> 1.. Lighting - - is 240 watts of Chroma 50s in the ball park or should I be 
> considing adding  another 80 watts or so?  
I believe it is on the low-ligth side. A 120 g is 24" deep, right ? If I
were you I would start with the 240 watt but be prepared to boost it. My
temptation would be to replace the guts of one of the shopligths with a 
dual 55 Watt PC kit from AHS.
> 2.  Fertilization -- with a nearly 100 percent Flourite substrate in a newly 
> set up tank, what fertilization schedule  would you suggest. I'm inclined 
> toward using Fourish + Iron  in the water column and Flourish tabs in the 
> substrate. But frankly I'd rather lose a few plants then have my tank turned 
> into pea soup with  an explosive algea bloom. 
> 3. Initially, to soften and lower the Ph  I intend  to float nylon bags 
> filled with peat moss in the tank , and then later condition the water I use  
> for water changes in the same manner. I appreciate that quantities depend on 
> the chemistry of my water and that it's a fine tune as you go process but, 
> what type of peat would be best and or acceptable for this use?
I tried Fluval peat fiber and gardening peat in my canister filter, hanging 
in the aquarium, in the filter intake. None worked a zilch to decrese
gH. My substrate has some contamination from CacO3-rich pebbles that I cannot
remove, thus my attempts to decrease gH. Now, with the aging tank, it seems to
be loosing its leaching power and I keep gH under control with water changes
alone. How is your tap water in terms of hardness ? Can't be too different
from mine, I guess, we live not that far apart. If your tap water is in the 
range below gH=8, say, and you don't intend for instance to raise discus in
that tank, I would suggest: (i) measure the gH-increasing capability of 
*everything* you'll put into the tank, before assembling it. (ii) forget 
about lowering the gH in the tank, and (iii) use a decent pressurized CO2 
system to lower the pH. That should be sufficient to keep most plants and 
fish you would care to think.

 > Thanking the list in advance.
> David Napierkowski
> Focaipoint at aol_com
> Annapolis, Maryland

- Ivo Busko
  Baltimore, MD