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>Has anyone had any good experience with the Seachen Iron Test Kit?

OK, like most iron kits.

>It seems consistent, but they tell you to wait 10-15 minutes to take a
>reading for ionic Fe, and to wait 30-45 minutes to take a chelated Fe
>reading (from the same sample).  I can't get any significant reading for the
>ionic Fe, but get about .1 ppm for the chelated Fe.
>Which reading should I be be looking at?  If its the ionic Fe, I'm afraid I
>might have to get the $62 LaMotte kit.

I'd say you need more iron. Unless you are using something like D.Walstead's
method with a soil substrate and using iron as a limiting nutrient for algae
I have high levels of iron......sometime up to 2 ppm(not 0.2ppm!) and I
don't have algae or blooms.
My PO4's are 1ppm out of the tap, still no algae. 
That was with a Sera kit and gave an immediate readings with no elapsed
time! It was likely higher........ 

>Speaking of LaMotte (and Hach) kits,  they do make a whole bunch.  If anyone
>has a product number and some specifics on the ease of use at 0-.2 ppm, I
>would appreciate the info.  I think I saw one of the LaMotte Fe kits for

I'd use the .1ppm  .2ppm  .5ppm  .7ppm 1.0ppm 2.0ppm etc range
If you want to get a better narrow range for your test kit try this:
Double the amount water in the test vial. This is half the original
So now if it was  a range of .1ppm .2pmm etc you now have .05ppm and .1ppm
The color might be to faded though. There are some other tricks also like
heating I think?  
I think 7767/p-62 would be a good one. Hach make s good one too. I think
Steve Dixon has some experience with this one.

 I really think it (iron) is not as critical as some on this claim it is.
Plants can go some time without any in the water column. I think close to
three weeks or more if they can get it from the gravel.  My experience tells
me that iron levels are dynamic not a static level that has to be maintained
or else algae will come in. Same goes for PO4's and NO3's. It's all about
Newer folks always seem to point the accusing finger at nutrients but often
it is water changes and CO2 and perhaps needing to add KNO3. CO2 is the big
one though. Check this first then move on. It takes time for the plants to
get going again also. Patience always helps. If your plants are doing well
then your doing something right so the levels don't really matter.
My plants don't do well unless I have .5ppm Fe or higher. Big water changes
prevent build up and dosing errors. Plants like water changes generally
unless you have bad tap water. 
Tom Barr