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Re Another Algae problem (more info)

Hello again every one,

	I had a response to my original post that set me to thinking. I should
have included more info regarding the lighting, I was getting concerned
about the length of the first posting though. So I'm sending this info as
an addition. Thanks again for your time and all your responses to now.

><<Lighting 245 wtts staggered over 11 hrs and over varying locations. 
>        (Lately 150 wtts over 9.5 hrs limited to the back of the tank.)>>

	I have my lighting set up so it turns on gradually to full by what would
be mid afternoon, then shutting off in the same sequences as it turned on.
I have five timers controlling six ballasts, the Co2 and a cooling fan. The
lighting turns on from back to front in order to minimize the amount of
light that hits the bare gravel(where there is any) as well as the lower
light plants which are also shaded by some pennywort (when not being given
massive trimmings do the algae on their roots).

In semi detail the lights work as follows. (I had to much time on my hands
I guess)

11:00 am 3 X 15 wt (3x18")comes on and turns off at 10 pm.
(One bulb front center, 2 bulbs to the L&R middle)

11:30 am 1 x 40 wt (1x 48") comes on and turns off at 9:30pm.
(Left side middle of tank over the Val., Ambulia and Alt.r) (Co2 turns on) 

12:00 pm 2 x 40 wt (2x42") comes on and turns off at 9:00 pm
(1 bulb to the left back, 1 to the right middle)	

1:00 pm 2 x 40 wt (2 x48") comes on and turns off at 8:00pm
(1 bulb to the left front, 1 to the right back) (fan turns on)

(at this point I have one set (80 wts) turned off all the time)

The 42" and 48" bulbs over lap in the middle of the tank and creates a high
Lux area for the Alt. reneckii and the Ambulia.

	I use the fan to cool the canopy for a couple of reason; the first being
that the bulbs are 1 inch from the glass top and as a result this creates
enough heat to drive up the temp almost two degrees (from 25c+-.1 to 26.7c
at the highest). I also use the fan to cool the bulbs do to there close
proximity to one another. This hopefully will add to there life span by at
least a few months (or so I planned. Those Hagen 42 inch bulbs aren't cheap
around here. I used them so there would be enough space left for two more
24" bulbs if they were ever needed). 

	I put the Co2 on timer because of the potential high bio load and the
amount of plants that are being kept in the tank. It was maintaining a
steady level of Co2 and pH for about four months before I started to filter
with peat. The Kh Ph = Co2 method of measurement no longer works with the
same degree of accuracy apparently, so I'm only guessing that the level has
been maintained to this time. I had excellent pearling for many, many
months (and a lot of cutting to do weekly before this disaster happened) so
I was comfortable with the timer setting (took awhile to get the right flow
rate). The Ph is fairly stable from morning to night.

Heating is provided by two 150 wt heater at opposite ends of the tank (tank
is located on an out side wall). The back and bottom of the tank are
insulated with 1/2 inch blue board. (Digital temp monitor in located in the
center of the tank)

Hope this gives a more detailed picture of the environment.

(I will start to add the No3 again as suggested (dosed separately from the
PMDD) to maintain 5 pmm, and lower the Po some more, thanks again)

Shennon ta:non Nariwiio

Jeff Bennett